Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Nuts and bolts

Pilar and I have now left the Wilderness Management team for the time being and are spending three weeks based in Reykjavik helping out with project support. This essentially involves taking care of food supplies for the teams: unpacking deliveries to our workshop/store room, packing up numerous sets of dry food boxes and doing big supermarket runs for fresh items, then helping to deliver all the food, plus any extra equipment and bits and pieces to the eight teams scattered across Iceland. This means we are now the proud custodians of a big silver Skoda, which is very exciting, although we have spent most of the week trying to get rid of the odd cabbagey hire car smell which came with it!

It has been good to experience what goes on behind the scenes of a programme which now has over 60 volunteers to feed, water and ferry between sites; and changeover days, when the teams move to different project locations, are particular logistical challenges/nightmares. Getting the cars and drivers where they need to be, with enough spare seats, plus space for luggage, the right food boxes and the right equipment, the right sets of keys even... the amount to think about is mind boggling. On Saturday, for example, three cars were involved in ferrying four new team members plus Pilar and I into our project site in Thorsmork, then bringing us both out again along with ten people from another team - and as the road to Thorsmork involves river crossings, the smallest car had to wait behind around an hour away. But somehow it all worked, and a few hours later we had two cars plus food for twenty heading east to Skaftafell, and the third heading west back to Reykjavik. Simples!

Some days, between food deliveries, there is little we can do in the workshop. However, we have been given a side project to keep us entertained at Gullfoss, a large waterfall and tour bus magnet a couple of hours out of Reykjavik. We have been heading up there in the early evenings, once the tourist traffic has started to die down, to replace a wooden staircase leading to the visitors centre. We are able to get through around six steps per evening and the view from the office window is terrific! The work itself is good fun and we have had some entertaining comments from tourists who have been somewhat shocked to find themselves climbing over two women lying under a staircase, nuts, bolts and spanners in hand!

The staircase at Gullfoss

The view from our work site

The waterfall in all its glory

The best part of project support, though, apart from playing extreme Supermarket Sweep on a daily basis, is undoubtedly the driving. I probably won´t be saying that in a months time, but this week, in addition to the off-road drive into Thorsmork, we were lucky enough to be sent up to Skorradalur to take supplies to half of the Wilderness Management team and spend a day working with them. It was an absolutely stunning drive around Hvalfjordur in beautiful weather: a vast fjord complete with snow capped mountains in the distance and colourful farm houses dotted around its banks, followed by a gravel road over the hills with a view of the bright blue lake in Skorradalur down below.

Before coming to Iceland I read a book called the Four Hour Work Week by Tim Ferriss, in which he suggests that people do not wish to be millionaires, they just want the lifestyle that they associate with being rich, be it foreign travel, time to indulge in hobbies, or driving fast cars. He argues that these luxuries can be achieved without having millions in the bank, and that struck a chord with me today - there are people out there who would pay a small fortune to be able to drive all over Iceland, taking in all the sights, and even more to be able to go off the beaten track as we have done so often during our first month here alone. We are so incredibly lucky!

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Dear lupin, you are not welcome here

I am slowly coming to the realisation that Wilderness Management really means Wilderness Destruction. First the trees last week, and now we have turned our attentions to lupin:


It may look very pretty, but this lupin is an invasive species, hailing from Alaska. It was introduced to Iceland on purpose, as it can grow just about anywhere and helps to regenerate soil in damaged areas. However, it can easily spread out of control and threaten native plants, which is what is happening here in Skaftafell National Park. We can't possibly get rid of all of it, so our job is to create a lupin-free 'buffer zone' in the Morsadalur (valley of the Morsa river, which drains the Morsa glacier), with the aim of containing it across on the west bank.


Morsadalur

This week we have been experimenting with different methods of recording the location and extent of the lupin, as well as ways of killing it. Surveying for lupin involves spreading out in a line across 100m and combing the landscape for plants - as though we are searching a crime scene for evidence. We use GPS units to record the location each time we come across one, and note down details such as how many there are, whether they are in flower, and whether they have developed seed pods. Then we pull the little devils out! Slowly but surely, we are building up a picture of the spread of lupin across the buffer zone, which will be plotted on a map and compared with previous and future years. With time, we will be able to see whether our mission to destroy is working...

Today we carried out some interesting tests on the actual removal method itself, working in 10m squared quadrants. We recorded the location of each quadrant by GPS, then set about killing the lupin in different ways: digging up the roots, scything it down, trampling on it, cutting it back in a sheep pen in the hope that they will eat it. Next year's team will no doubt be surveying the results!


The only good lupin is a dead lupin.

Apart from honing our lupin killing instincts, we've had some time to enjoy the national park too. It is set in a beautiful location, nestled between tongues of the great Vatnajokull glacier, the largest ice cap in Europe. The mountains and glacial valleys are beautiful, and there are numerous hiking trails, most of which seem to lead to waterfalls. We have our section of the campsite to ourselves, and even better, we have a section of the park rangers' hut all to ourselves too, including a decent sized kitchen and living room. It feels a bit like Big Brother at times, 11 people who have only just met living in the same house, dividing ourselves into cooking and cleaning teams, going out to do a task every day, composing shopping lists and trying to entertain ourselves in the evenings, but in a good way! The atmosphere within the group is great and we have cooked some pretty amazing meals. Everyone has a great attitude towards the work we are doing and the challenging conditions at times, and I think we are all here for much the same reasons. Just a lovely bunch of people, really!

Finally, I can't talk about Skaftafell without mentioning the ubiquitous ash that fell two weeks ago. It is still very much present - the glacier tongues are soot coloured for a start, and the entire place is covered by what feels like a fine layer of sand. It gets absolutely everywhere and when the wind whips up, which is often, you get a good dusting, including in the eyes! It's been difficult at times, especially down in the valley when we are constantly getting sandblasted, but we are all coping OK. It makes those hot showers at the end of the day so much more satisfying... and who needs fancy exfoliants and scrubs when you have volcanic ash?!

Ash cloud's gonna get ya...

So, one more day together as a group and then the evictions start (only kidding). We will be split up for a while, though. The team is being divided into two, and I am leaving this weekend with Pilar for three weeks of project support work, which can involve anything from packing up food boxes in Reykjavik to driving to project locations and helping new groups to set up camp. I'm excited for the variety but sad to be leaving the team when everything is going so well. I'll be back in July, though. The lupin can run but it can't hide!

Saturday, June 4, 2011

What does the inside of the earth smell like...?

Thursday and Friday were written off as travel days, but turned out to be rather special. After bidding a fond farewell to our forest home in Hólar, we drove down to lake Mývatn and after setting up camp, went for a late afternoon walk around Leirhnjukul, or 'clay mountain', part of the Krafla caldera in north-east Iceland. This is an active volcanic area which erupted almost continuously for nine years between 1975 and 1984 in what was known as the 'Krafla fires'. To be able to walk amongst the aftermath (on an excellent boardwalk constructed by previous ICV volunteers!) was a real privilege. Steam rose from craters, mud pots bubbled all around us and we climbed over the young, lumpy lava which reminded me of caviar spread across the mountains. The top of the trail offered an incredible view across the scarred landscape. I felt so lucky to be there. We then finished the day off with a soak in the natural Mývatn steam baths, and when we got back to camp we found an amazing Icelandic feast waiting for us in the mess tent, lots of delicious breads, cheeses and pates. What a day.




On Friday morning, we stopped to have a look at the geothermal area at nearby Hverir, one of the largest hot spring areas in Iceland. The landscape was so raw and uninviting, steaming, hissing and bubbling away with no regard for us humans who for some reason think that we are the masters of this planet! Mud pots splattered menacingly and fumaroles spurted endless quantities of steam out of the ground - it took my breath away, both figuratively and literally, because the smell was almost unbearable - like caustic rotten eggs! I stood and thought about how that smell was coming from deep inside the earth, far below my feet, from a place that we are unlikely to ever photograph, let alone see with our own eyes. This was about as close as it gets.
I would love to return to Mývatn at some point, as there is just so much to see there. The landscape is like a cross between how you would expect Mars and the moon to look, and it really stirs up the explorer in you. Then of course there is Lake Mývatn itself - a unique ecosystem due to its rather effective under floor heating system. It's a paradise for birds, especially ducks, as parts of the lake are warm enough to avoid freezing over in winter, and they have plentiful midges to eat (Mývatn translates as midge lake, thankfully they don't bite!).

We are now settled in at Skaftafell and the ash from the recent eruption is still very much in evidence. The park is surrounded by glacier tongues, which are black and sooty instead of their usual blue-white, and the dust is everywhere, like fine sand. The good news though is that we have a hut for cooking and relaxing in, which we gave a thorough spring clean this morning. The sun is shining and it's all quite homely! Tomorrow we hope to go out on a guided walk of one of the glaciers, then next week we will get cracking with lupin surveying and removal in the valley. More on that soon!

Friday, June 3, 2011

Tweet tweet!

No, not that kind of tweeting... yesterday, day 13, was a momentous occasion, as I finally spotted my first oystercatcher!!

Iceland is a fantastic place for birdwatching, what with all the coasts, cliffs, fjords and marshes, and general lack of trees for our feathered friends to hide in. There aren't all that many species here either (I think I read somewhere that there are around 75) so it's easier to remember the ones you have already spotted after a while. I appreciate that this will be very boring for everyone reading this, but I have decided to get a list going on this blog that I will add to each time I spot something new...

- Oystercatcher :)
- Black headed gull
- Common tern
- Common gull
- Great skua
- Fulmar
- Little gull
- Arctic tern
- Common snipe (and snipe babies)
- Black tailed godwit
- Golden plover
- Ptarmigan
- Redwing (and fledgling redwing)
- Common redpoll
- Blackbird
- White wagtail
- Wood pigeon
- Harlequin duck
- Mallard
- Wigeon
- Tufted duck
- Common eider duck
- Greater scaup
- Horned grebe
- Red necked phalarope
- Greylag goose